Embroidery Backings: What Goes Where?

When deciding which stabilizer to use, you also need to consider the material to be embroidered.
April 14, 2008

By Steven Batts

Previously, we explained the need for backings or stabilizers behind the fabric while it's being embroidered (see "Stabilizers: The Foundation of Embroidery"). Now we want to focus on the what and the where.

Stabilizers can be broken down into two major categories: cutaways and tearaways. While there are many weights and types of each of these, I recommend keeping the decision of which to use as simple as possible.

Backing Differences
For most of the embroidery applications in my home-based business, I generally stock a heavy-weight tearaway and a medium-weight cutaway. A single sheet of either these stabilizers should be more than sufficient when used for the appropriate application. This narrows my decision-making and reduces the space necessary to store my backings.

The main difference (besides how they're removed) between cutaway and tearaway is the length of the fibers that make up the stabilizer. Cutaway fibers are longer, making a cutaway more stable for embroidery but also causing the need for it to be cut away with scissors. When deciding which stabilizer to use, you would typically use a cutaway when more stability is needed and a tearaway when less stability is needed.

Matching Backings to Materials
To make this decision, you need to consider the material to be embroidered. Fabrics can be categorized into three groups: knits, wovens and nonwovens.

Knits are items like golf shirts, T-shirts, sweatshirts, socks and athletic wear. They are typically very stretchy, creating the need for more stability during the embroidery process. Therefore, a cutaway backing is normally used for these.

Wovens are products such as oxford shirts, linens, nylon jackets, towels and canvas bags. Woven items tend to have less stretch to them so there is less stability needed. Tearaway backings are normally sufficient for wovens. Some woven items, such as towels or canvas bags, are so stable they need no backing at all.

Nonwovens represent virtually anything else, including leather and vinyl, though these are not technically nonwovens. Most of these types of items are very stable and need little or no stabilization. If a stabilizer is needed, a tearaway should do.

The specific application ultimately determines the final decision regarding which type of backing to use. This means that, in some cases, instead of using one layer of cutaway, the application may dictate that the backing needs to be completely removed. In these instances, two pieces of tearaway can provide the same stability as one piece of cutaway.

For example, by strictly following the guidelines mentioned, you would determine that you should use cutaway backing when embroidering socks. However, that would not work for this particular application. A cutaway would be irritating when worn so tightly around the ankles. Because of this, it's better to use two pieces of tearaway instead of a single piece of cutaway.

While there are a lot more choices for backings than I've covered here, including several backings for special applications I haven't discussed, the basic stabilizers used in the traditional ways will do just fine for the majority of the work most embroiderers do.

Steven Batts, a 14-year veteran of the embroidery industry, is a regular speaker at the Imprinted Sportswear Shows. He owns Righteous Threads Embroidery, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery, machine maintenance and repair, and consulting. Call him at (336) 379-9380 or e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.


For Further Reading:

"Backing Basics"
"How to Choose the Right Backing"
"How to Tackle T-Shirt Embroidery"
"Stabilizers: The Foundation of Embroidery"
"Tame the Terrycloth Beast"

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