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SCREEN PRINTING
Green Shop Changes Things One Shirt at a TimeThis married couple's steady success proves that any decorator can become green certified and survive.Oct 1, 2008
The couple started screen printing part-time in 1995, designing and printing T-shirts from home on weeknights and weekends. When Steve was laid off from a Silicon Valley technology company, the couple decided to make Goza Gear a full-time endeavor. They focused on the green business niche. "We knew that sustainable [practices] would become a way of business across the board," Steve says. "Organic food wasn't popular in the '60s and '70s, but became huge 20 years later. Apparel is taking the same route." SUSTAINABLE STEPS The Melgozas believe in taking small steps to reach sustainability. They first integrated organic cotton and other sustainable fabrics, such as hemp, into the business. "We support United States farming and manufacturing as much as we can," Steve says. "We try to do everything locally to conserve fuel and emissions." More recently, the Melgozas started printing garments that incorporate polyester fiber made from recycled plastic bottles. "We feel that's going to be the next big boom — recycled fabrics," he says. "Organic cotton may not be able to keep up with the demand. The next alternative will be using recycled fabric to keep [plastic bottles] out of landfills." Goza Gear estimates that it has diverted 2,600 pounds of chemicals from being released into the soil, water and air. Steve explains that the Organic Exchange estimates that 1/3 pound of chemicals is diverted per organic T-shirt manufactured vs. a conventional shirt. The company also researched how to reduce its carbon footprint via inks. Originally, the Melgozas solely used plastisols, but they recently found a water-based ink that fit their needs. For embroidery, the Melgozas use Madeira thread, which is certified through OEKO-TEX, a company located in Bonnigheim, Germany, that tests for specified harmful substances in textiles. While the Melgozas constantly work to educate their customers on green and sustainable screen printing practices, not all orders are for organic shirts printed with water-based ink. "About 10% to 15% of our business is still plastisol," Steve says. "We're doing the best we can with what we have." The next step in Goza Gear's eco-friendly quest was a water filtration system from Blackline Mfg., Chico, Calif. It captures all of the inks and solids, then filters the water before it goes into the city's water system. COMMUNITY OUTREACH Goza Gear has been green-certified by multiple organizations and is heavily involved in the local green community — such as having started a local chapter of the Sustainable Business Alliance in 2004. But becoming sustainable is an ongoing process, and green certification isn't instantaneous. The company is in its second year of a three-year certification process by the Alameda County Green Business Program. The program is a voluntary, points-based system that takes into account such variables as water conservation and filtration, energy efficiency and air quality. The program isn't specific to any particular industry, but to all businesses that want to make a difference in the environment. The program cites certification advantages such as recognition as an environmental leader, a stronger bottom line through operating efficiency, improved employee morale and a greater marketing edge. Goza Gear also is a member of Co-Op America and the National Green Pages. "We had to be evaluated to become members of them," Steve says. "[It involved filling] out a questionnaire and making notes of what we do in our operations and socially in our community." The company is leasing a new space in Livermore, and Steve is working with the landlord to make it green-friendly by installing high-efficiency T4 and T8 flourescent lighting. "We'll continue recycling and separating the trash," he says. "One of our employees has a car that runs on biodiesel; others carpool. We plan to ride our bikes to work eventually." In addition, the company buys carbon offsets for its delivery vehicles. For Goza Gear, the baby steps toward sustainability will continue — one T-shirt at a time. Liz Aull is a freelance writer in Atlanta and a contributor to Impressions magazine. For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Liz at liz@aull-image.com. RECENT SCREEN PRINTING HEADLINES
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The decorated apparel industry, despite substantial challenges in the U.S. economy, is alive and…well, we could be doing better. Wall Street — and the economy in general — are on a wild roller coaster as the credit crunch continues and decorated apparel is not exempt. While no one can predict the future with certainty, this survey-based analysis suggests we'll be along for the ride, but perhaps on a smaller coaster that doesn't rise as high or plunge as fast as the monster whipsawing the rest of the U.S. economy. December 01, 2008
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